The Zala Hills and the Keszthely Hills: forests, trails and vineyards
Nemesbük lies where the Zala Hills meet the Keszthely Hills. Forests, basalt cones, castle ruins and vineyard hills make the area one of the leading active-tourism destinations in the Balaton region.
North-west of the western shore of Lake Balaton, the landscape gently softens into hill country. To the south it is framed by the wooded, steeper ridges of the Keszthely Hills, and to the west by the long, gentle ridges of the Zala Hills. Nemesbük lies where these two landscapes meet, in the valley of the Köszvényes stream, surrounded by forest on three sides.
Landscape and geography
The characteristic scenery of the Zala Hills is an alternation of stream valleys, patches of woodland, pastures and sunny vineyard hills. The ridges are not high – the boundary of Nemesbük, for instance, lies between 190 and 260 m – yet the terrain between the valleys and the viewpoints is surprisingly varied. In spring it is the fresh green of the beech and oak woods, and in autumn the colours of the grape harvest, that make it special.
The Keszthely Hills are more dramatic. Part of the Balaton Uplands National Park, they consist largely of Triassic dolomite, and karst features are therefore abundant. In two places, at Tátika and on Kovácsi Hill, basalt also breaks the surface. According to national park data, some 80 protected plant species grow here.
Natural attractions nearby
- Tátika and its ancient beech forest. Castle ruins crown the summit of the basalt cone, while one of the finest old-growth beech forests in the region grows on its slopes.
- Rezi Castle. A castle ruin towering above Hévíz, with superb views over Keszthely Bay and the Kis-Balaton.
- Csodabogyós Cave. The visitor centre for the Keszthely Hills operates at this cave near Balatonederics.
- Kotsy Watermill. A restored watermill in Zalaszántó, at the western foot of the hills.
- Nature trails. The national park maintains four educational nature trails in the hills, including shorter routes suited to family walks.
The National Blue Trail section
The OKT-03 section of the National Blue Trail (Országos Kéktúra), between Sümeg and Keszthely, is one of the most beautiful routes in the area. The 44.6 km section, with around 785 m of total ascent, passes Zalaszántó (the Peace Stupa), Tátika and Rezi Castle before reaching Hévíz and then Keszthely. The walk is typically split over two days, and Nemesbük is a convenient base for both halves: the village can be reached in a few minutes from Hévíz or Rezi.
Cycling in the area
Lake Balaton is encircled by the Balaton Cycle Route (Balatoni Bringakör), some 205 km long, which passes through Keszthely from the direction of Gyenesdiás. A shorter, family-friendly loop is the Keszthely–Hévíz–Kis-Balaton route, which runs between the thermal lake, Keszthely Bay and the wetlands, largely on flat terrain. On the hilly back roads of Zala, more experienced cyclists will also find a challenge.
Vineyard hills and traditions
On the Zala hills, the vine has been part of the landscape for centuries. Nemesbük, too, has its own vineyard hill, where – according to local memory – the village originally stood. The people of Nemesbük also cultivated vines within the boundaries of the neighbouring villages of Karmacs, Rezi and Zalaköveskút. Press houses and small cellars still line the hillsides today. The nearby Cserszeg area, part of the Balaton Uplands wine region, already offers organised wine tastings.
Four seasons, four demand profiles
- In spring the forests come into leaf, making it ideal for hiking and cycling.
- In summer a morning hike in the hills, an afternoon on the beach at Lake Balaton.
- In autumn the grape harvest, colourful foliage and the finest views.
- In winter quiet woodland walks, followed by a bathe in the thermal lake at Hévíz.
Nemesbük as a base
For active visitors staying several days, a well-connected base is essential. Nemesbük is favourably placed in this respect: a quiet village on the edge of the forest, from which Hévíz, Keszthely and the trailheads of the Keszthely Hills can all be reached within a few minutes. With private terraces, saunas and pools, the HillGate apartments also cater for this clientele, which can support occupancy in the spring and autumn months as well.
Related analysis: Nemesbük, and Hévíz, Keszthely and the proximity of Lake Balaton.
